A Snapshot of the Scene at Kingpins New York

Kingpins New York, held July 22-23 at Pier 36 / Basketball City brought together the brands, mills, and makers shaping denim’s next chapter. 

The buyer list included representatives from Alexander Wang, Veronica Beard, Karl Lagerfeld R13, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Kith, John Varvatos, J.Crew, Naked & Famous, Kontoor, Gap, Marc Jacobs, Madewell, Macy’s, Centric Brands, Mamiye Brothers, G-III, Catalyst, and Sunrise Brands, as well as many new companies and newcomers to the show. 

“Every time we set up our events, it feels less like a trade show and more like a reunion,” said Kingpins CEO Vivian Wang. “This industry moves fast, but for two days, everyone stopped to actually talk to each other about where denim is right now and where it’s headed next. The conversations happening on our show floor are shaping the denim industry of tomorrow — and that’s the strength of our community. It’s what keeps me optimistic about the future.”

Although thunderstorms across the US in the days before the show delayed some flights, all exhibitors still made it. In total: 71 booths, plus two focused mini shows. Jeanius Hub spotlighted innovation from Lab Denim, Make the Dot, Unspun, and WOPTAG. Made in Japan brought craft and precision from Ideablue, ICE, Japan Delivery Service, and Rainbow Textiles.

The Boxes included three installations that turned the floor into a gallery. “Anniversary d.d.p.” by Andrew Berul recreated the artist’s studio practice. “Camo For Peace,” a Tonello x Transnomadica collab, reworked camouflage as ethic, not tactic. And “148 Lab, Cocinado en Medellín” offered a hands-on DIY denim “kitchen,” building toward a collaborative piece headed to auction.

Other highlights included:

* The Lildenim Styling Session brought four underground New York labels together. 

* Community Tapestry turned textile waste into handwoven art, benefiting FABSCRAP NYC. 

* Oak & Acorn’s Future Denim Makers Lab reimagined the brand’s Signature Jumpsuit. 

* And the show honored the life and work of denim legend Adriano Goldschmied.

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